3D Print Problems

General

• https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
• http://www.geeetech.com/blog/2016/12/troubleshooting-guide-to-19-common-3d-printing-problemspart-one/

Print Aborted

Running out of filament

The amount of initial filiament shipped with my Geeetech_A10 was simply not enough to finish the print job:

Rebooting computer while USB is connected

When installing a new USB driver the computer rebooted - it's probably the same if you unplug and plug the USB cable while printing from SD card:

Undextrusion

See e.g.

• https://www.raise3d.com/pages/extruding-too-little-much-plastic
• https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion

in my case it happened when I set the Filament settings in the marlin menu with "E in mm3" to 1.75. This was a misunderstanding that lead the software to assume my filament was flowing faster than it was. After switching the volumentric value off things were much better.

Clogged Nozzle

See e.g.

• https://help.prusa3d.com/article/WWVRzOY1dX-clogged-nozzle

Print stuck to glass / print bed

• https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/

I had best results with the temperature method in combination with taping the bed before printing. With a minus 17 degree cooling pad from the deep fridge below the glas bed and a gentle stroke with the rubber hammer the problem usually went away within a minute.

Changing filament

• Change Filament

Pillowing

• https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-top-layer-problems-easy-fixes-for-pillowing/
• https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/pillowing-stringing-and-splitting-what-they-are-and-how-to-stop-them
• https://www.raise3d.com/pages/holes-and-gaps-in-solid-layers

Speed

Experiments with a small test cube

Print accurary in mmm

1. 0.6 mm - 5 min
2. 0.4 mm - 7 min
3. 0.3 mm - 9:27 min
4. 0.2 mm - 12:26 min

In the design i printed the accuracy and temperature as text so that the samples will "document themselves ..."