Difference between revisions of "3D Print Problems"
| Line 71: | Line 71: | ||
=== Initial bed leveling === | === Initial bed leveling === | ||
Get a piece of 80g/m² paper ready. | Get a piece of 80g/m² paper ready. | ||
| − | # The glass plate should be will fixed with fold back clips. Especially the left rear corner might need to clips. Foldback the bottom clip and remove the top one for the clips pointing to the left. | + | # The glass plate should be will fixed with fold back clips. Especially the left rear corner might need to clips. Foldback the bottom clip and remove the top one for the clips pointing to the left. |
# Auto Home from the Marlin menu: Prepare/Auto home[[File:AutoHome.jpg|200px]] | # Auto Home from the Marlin menu: Prepare/Auto home[[File:AutoHome.jpg|200px]] | ||
# Preheat your Extruder: Prepare/Preheat PLA | # Preheat your Extruder: Prepare/Preheat PLA | ||
Revision as of 11:27, 25 February 2019
General
- https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
- http://www.geeetech.com/blog/2016/12/troubleshooting-guide-to-19-common-3d-printing-problemspart-one/
Checklist
Some of the problems described here can be avoided by observing the 3D Print Checklist
Print Aborted
Running out of filament
The amount of initial filiament shipped with my Geeetech_A10 was simply not enough to finish the print job:
Rebooting computer while USB is connected
When installing a new USB driver the computer rebooted - it's probably the same if you unplug and plug the USB cable while printing from SD card:
Underextrusion
See e.g.
- https://www.raise3d.com/pages/extruding-too-little-much-plastic
- https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion
in my case it happened when I set the Filament settings in the marlin menu with "E in mm3" to 1.75. This was a misunderstanding that lead the software to assume my filament was flowing faster than it was. After switching the volumentric value off things were much better. The same will happen if you use the default Material/filament size in Cura which might be wrongly set to 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm for the filament you might be using.
The 3D_Print_Testbox print clearly shows the difference:
Clogged Nozzle
See e.g.
Print stuck to glass / print bed
I had best results with the temperature method in combination with taping the bed before printing. With a minus 17 degree cooling pad from the deep fridge below the glas bed and a gentle stroke with the rubber hammer the problem usually went away within a minute.
Stringing
see e.g.
Slight stringing can simply be sanded off:
Shifting layers / Layer shifting
- https://help.prusa3d.com/article/v40kdhc9rk-layer-shifting
- https://forums.matterhackers.com/topic/76/how-to-fix-shifting-layers
- https://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=87959&sid=1f0175e82a10a863b927e1272ffdb257
Changing filament
Pillowing
- https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-top-layer-problems-easy-fixes-for-pillowing/
- https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/pillowing-stringing-and-splitting-what-they-are-and-how-to-stop-them
- https://www.raise3d.com/pages/holes-and-gaps-in-solid-layers
Bed Leveling
Geeetech A10 Bed Leveling
Initial bed leveling
Get a piece of 80g/m² paper ready.
- The glass plate should be will fixed with fold back clips. Especially the left rear corner might need to clips. Foldback the bottom clip and remove the top one for the clips pointing to the left.
- Auto Home from the Marlin menu: Prepare/Auto home
- Preheat your Extruder: Prepare/Preheat PLA
- You might want to loosen all four screws until you feel no more resistance - do not turn much further or the screws will come completly off. Looking from the top you turn the screws clockwise. Your hands have to move counter-clockwise since the screws are below the plate.
- Start the leveling procedure from the Marlin menu: Prepare/Level corners. Make sure the paper is squeezed by the extruder in the corresponding corner. At this time the corners should be too tight. In the first "round" - 4 x time "next corner"
tighten the screws until you feel some resistance from the screws. Don't worry about the amount of resistance of the paper on top yet - it should just be tight. - Now loosen the resistance on the paper by turning the screws counter-clockwise (moving your hand clockwise). The paper should just not move freely - a little bit of "rest-resistance" should be feelable.
Testing with some gcode
The front left corner ist not o.k.
Support
https://pinshape.com/blog/dotm-fantasy-graph-3d-printer-support-structures/
Speed
Speed, Quality, Strength, Cost - pick any two ...
Support break down
Test Cube
See 3D Print Testbox