Difference between revisions of "3D Print Problems"
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With a minus 17 degree cooling pad from the deep fridge below the glas bed and a gentle stroke with the rubber hammer the | With a minus 17 degree cooling pad from the deep fridge below the glas bed and a gentle stroke with the rubber hammer the | ||
problem usually went away within a minute. | problem usually went away within a minute. | ||
| + | = Changing filament = | ||
| + | * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od3W-asW3FY Change Filament] | ||
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= Speed = | = Speed = | ||
== Experiments with a small test cube == | == Experiments with a small test cube == | ||
Revision as of 19:28, 18 February 2019
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
Pillowing
- https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-top-layer-problems-easy-fixes-for-pillowing/
- https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/pillowing-stringing-and-splitting-what-they-are-and-how-to-stop-them
- https://www.raise3d.com/pages/holes-and-gaps-in-solid-layers
Undextrusion
See e.g.
- https://www.raise3d.com/pages/extruding-too-little-much-plastic
- https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion
in my case it happened when I set the Filament settings in the marlin menu with "E in mm3" to 1.75. This was a misunderstanding that lead the software to assume my filament was flowing faster than it was. After switching the volumentric value off things were much better.
Clogged Nozzle
See e.g.
Print stuck to glass / print bed
I had best results with the temperature method in combination with taping the bed before printing. With a minus 17 degree cooling pad from the deep fridge below the glas bed and a gentle stroke with the rubber hammer the problem usually went away within a minute.
Changing filament
Speed
Experiments with a small test cube
Print accurary in mmm
- 0.6 mm - 5 min
- 0.4 mm - 7 min
- 0.3 mm - 9:27 min
- 0.2 mm - 12:26 min
In the design i printed the accuracy and temperature as text so that the samples will "document themselves ..."